Caleta Lobos

"Paper Boat" one of La Paz's sculptures.

Both Greg and I were really starting to miss the quiet and solitude we had enjoyed while out on the islands. We had been waiting two weeks for a priority mail package which still hadn’t arrived; we were beginning to wonder if it ever would arrive (I know - priority and Mexico is an oxymoron). We had seen enough of La Paz for a while and decided to make the short trip to one of the nearby coves just NE of La Paz and wait there.

We loaded up with fresh fruits and vegetables at the newly formed once-a-week organic market, restocked the wine and tequila inventory and pulled anchor.

We prepared to sail but the wind was under 5 knots so we had to endure the diesel noise for the 8 miles to Caleta Lobos.

Looking over the lagoon and mangroves at Caleta Lobos.

We had spent one night here on our way into La Paz and had to share with five other boats. This time there is only one other sailboat, a beautiful Morgan 50 named Relax from Victoria.

What a wonderful difference - just the sound of the wind, the birds and some sea lions a ways off on a rocky outcropping. It was 85 deg. and calm when we arrived - unusually warm for January in Baja. Just enough breeze to be comfortable in the shade. The first night a strong coromuel wind blew all night; the boat didn’t rock much but the wind roared. The next night was dead calm.

We have had bee encounters of the weird kind. We were sitting in the cockpit at La Paz and I noticed that we were surrounded by a swarm of bees - hundreds of them. They didn’t enter the boat and eventually the wind carried the swarm away. In Caleta Lobos we were visited by bees again. This time they invited themselves inside. I had an empty  

All the activity wore him out!

maple syrup bottle on the counter along with a container that had overly ripe banana pulp in it. The bees were happily sucking up syrup, eating banana bits and licking the last of the pancake batter from a bowl. They didn’t bother us but it was very strange to have bees everywhere. I tossed some out of the hatches, and rescued a few that discovered that they couldn’t swim, while I removed the tempting dishes. Cinnamon, who loves to catch and eat flies, was quick to snag a bee and I was worried that I would have a cat with a swollen lip, but once the bee hit the deck he lost interest.  I am not one to wash up dishes quickly, so it’s a good thing that I like bees (wasps and hornets are another matter - I’ve already been bitten once). So BEE SENSITIVE people beware if you visit.





Island at entrance to Caleta Lobos.



We dinghied around Caleta Lobos and watched the tropical fish through the incredibly

View of coral from dignhy.

 clear water; no need to snorkel. Huge coral heads were abundant and we made a note  where not to anchor in the future. We saw a school of fish pass under us and couldn’t decide whether they were young Wahoo or some type of bill fish. There were several pelicans, a cormorant and some gulls on the island at the entrance to the cove. There were crabs of the most brilliant red and yellow scurrying around. 



View of sea urchin & fish (upper left).



We hiked from the beach to the cell tower located on the ridge between Lobos and Balandra. There wasn’t any little sign showing mileage and difficulty so I was more optimistic about this hike. The folks from Relax had done it in the afternoon of the day before, so how hard could it be? Most of the hike is actually on a road, of sorts, that is used to service the tower. Except for the rocky drainage that we had to walk thru to get to the road and the washouts in the road, it wasn’t bad - except for the 80 deg temp and being high noon. 

I came across one cactus in bloom (plants bloom due to ideal conditions or when they are very stressed - this one was a goner). The view over Balandra was beautiful. We saw evidence of several species of mammals but not the animals themselves and the only birds we saw were two egrets fishing in the lagoon at the base of the hills.



Viewing Puerto Balandra from the ridge. 





We were planning to head back to La Paz to check on the mail again but flexible is my middle name now. Greg mentioned that the tide was perfect for visiting the pearl farm in Bahia San Gabriel on Isla Espiritu Santo and that’s all it took. In nothin’ flat the sails were up and we were on our way.

A glorious day; 15 knot winds and in about two hours we were there.  We decided to try the Ensenada de la Dispensa (big name for a tiny, shallow cove) just below San Gabriel. We anchored in 12 feet over a sandy bottom; we were the only boat. We arrived early enough in the afternoon to take a walk along the beach which had very unusual volcanic rock. We came upon a large tangle of ghost net which Greg helped me move above the high tide mark.

The next morning we set off on our next adventure. The abandoned pearl farm is at the end of the lagoon that is colonized by the Magnificent Frigatebird. The lagoon does not look completely natural because it was augmented with some rectangular stones to maintain depth. We had been told that we could dinghy thru the channels but the mangroves are trying to take over. We anchored by a very convenient rock wall and walked around. The ground, the typical volcanic rock mixed with coral and shells, was littered with broken sea urchin shells left by the gulls and fish skeletons left by the great blue herons (which nest peacefully with the frigates) and unfortunately some human trash.

A lot of labor went into dressing the stones and building the alternating channels that were feed by the tides. There was no sign of any oysters (darn!) but a porcupine fish was cruising around. Several low stone walls running parallel to the channels run up the hill beyond the lagoon. Their purpose eluded us.

We spent some time watching the narrow channel from the lagoon, bordered by mangroves and the rock wall, and fish started to venture out.  A two-foot long silver tubesnout fish which we continually see (I have found several skeletons but have been unable to id it) was joined by several foot-long fish of two species that were subtle but beautifully colored. Greg started grumbling about not bringing his fishing pole.



After dining on tequila cilantro shrimp for lunch, while we listened to a pair of ospreys call as they flew overhead, we headed back to La Paz. This time we motored while we made water.

While staying in Caleta Lobos the fellow from Relax told us that he liked to collect scallops. According to him the south wall of Caleta Partida is covered in them. Later he made a point to stop by and warn us about red tide. On the way back to La Paz we passed through some areas where the water looked like blood was billowing up from the depths. Vast areas were the color of sangria. It was obviously a “red tide” but was it toxic? We debated whether or not it was safe to make water. Finally I figured that the organic toxin must be a fairly large molecule and would be filtered out by the 5 micron water maker filter. If not - there won’t be any more blogs.

Once we got to La Paz I did some research and the info obtained was inconclusive. This is a good website on the subject if you are interested: http://www.whoi.edu/redtide/page.do?pid=14899.

Isla Partida

Southern cove anchorage at Ensenada Grande

Isla Partida

One of our favorite anchorages is Ensenada Grande on Isla Partida. Ensenada Grande is a three-lobed bay that provides good anchorage, beautiful scenery, hiking and snorkeling. We spent two nights in the northern cove parallel to the cliff, one night in the middle cove and two nights in the southern cove utilizing two anchors (our favorite, where we had stayed when we previously chartered).

The northern cove was the least scenic but was the best for watching stingrays. The rays, which we never could positively identify, would shoot out of the water flying several feet into the air while flapping their “wings” (their flippers actually). Some would fly forward and some did somersaults. We watched them for four days. Several would be flying at once and it could last for 30 minutes. We wondered if they were playing, feeding or fleeing. I was able to find out that rays are the favorite food for sharks. As we were returning to La Paz I noticed a rather large disturbance in the water ahead. As we drew nearer I began to see rays flying and then I noticed about 30 small, dark fins cutting through the water around the rays. I am not positive, but I would bet they were sharks. What a sight to see. I couldn’t capture a picture of the rays flying but I did get one of the sharks; if you look closely you will see their fins.



Sharks after the rays.



I really wanted to stay in the southern cove near the beach again. It was one of the high points of my first charter trip to the Sea of Cortez. Greg was hesitant due to the wind and the position of two other smaller boats that were already in the cove. After a couple of passes he decided we could do it if we deployed two anchors, but we couldn’t get as close to the beach as I wanted.

Northern shore of southern cove.

 

Brown Footed Booby

The turquoise water is full of small fish and is surrounded by cave studded cliffs and lush desert vegetation - perfect bird habitat. In the cove just south of Ensenada Grande is a special treat for birders - a blue footed booby rookery. We motored by the site but they had already left. I hope to see them when we return in the spring. I did spot two brown footed boobies however that were fishing around our boat. They are so fast it was difficult to get a picture that was in focus.



Table cloth formation from wave action.



Wonderful snorkel spot in the south cove.

We snorkeled along the base of the northern cliff. The water is 70 deg now and we can only manage 30 minutes before hypothermia starts in. We saw several new species and some fairly large fish (about 18” long). I’m still searching for a reef fish book so that I can id them.

Great Blue Heron

 Oysters used to be abundant in this area but were over fished. Note how small they are compared to our oysters. Hopefully they will rebuild their numbers now that Mexico is more environmentally aware.

The beginning of another hike.

Another “hike” leads from the white sand beach of this cove across the island to the eastern shore. It follows a rocky arroyo (stream bed) ending at a 450 ft cliff that looks down on the sea. This hike was 5 miles, and like the first, had very little in the way of a trail. It also required scrambling over boulders the size of VW beetles.  It was amazing how lush the arroyo was. There were several species of leguminous trees and some wildflowers and seed pods were still visible. Plants were growing miraculously out of rocks. I guess they live on whatever water falls or condenses on them.



Water course thru the arroyo shows strength of water.





Looking down at our anchorage.



We saw the only mammal mentioned on the information sign - the tiny antelope ground squirrel. We also saw one snake - which I think was a mountain gartersnake. It was lying along the side of a rock and quickly moved away as Greg approached.

It was 70+ with the sun overhead.  I gave up about 4/5ths of the way up; I figured I had better save my strength. I rested in a lovely little shaded area. Greg went on to the cliff and took pictures and as you can see the view was spectacular. We made our way back down without incident, looking forward to some nice margaritas.

Shady resting place in the arroyo.



East side of Isla Partida





Looking south from atop the cliff.







Looking north.



Los Islotes and Sea Lion Rookery



We are returning to La Paz for mail and to reprovision. At the northern end of Isla Partida is a wonderful place called Los Islotes, a rocky outcropping with a sea lion rookery. Here you can swim with the sea lions and their pups. I did this on our first charter with a friend.  Greg will join me this time when we head north again, if the water temp doesn’t prevent it.

Isla Espiritu Santo

Bahia San Gabriel

Comocean facing the lagoon & rookery.

Just 20 miles north of La Paz are the islands of Espiritu Santo and Partida. The two islands are only separated by a narrow channel which can be navigated by dinghy at high tide. These islands are in the National Marine Park and there is a 40 peso (approx $3.50 US) per person per day fee for any type of recreational activity on the islands (since there are no park rangers, users are supposed to self report their activities - which apparently doesn’t happen).

In 2003 an alliance of Mexican and US conservation groups assisted the Mexican government in purchasing the islands to preserve and protect them. According to the Nature Conservancy, this region serves as breeding grounds for birds, sea lions and marine turtles.

Our first anchorage was Bahia San Gabriel on the southwestern end of Isla Espiritu Santo. San Gabriel is a large bay with a beautiful white sand beach. There is a lagoon (OH BOY!) to explore which has the remains of an abandoned pearl fishery and a Magnificent Frigatebird rookery. Greg tried unsuccessfully to row into the lagoon against the out-flowing tide. We only had inches below the dinghy and I was afraid the many spiny urchins would surely puncture it. We decided that we would have to return another day when the tide was in our favor.

Magnificent Frigatebird



Note the male's red pouch which he uses to attract females.



Our guidebook noted a trail that leads across the island from Bahia San Gabriel to the enormous Playa Bonanza on the eastern shore of Espiritu Santo. In Greg’s never ending attempts to get me to exercise he suggested that we take a “walk”. The trail sign indicated that it was a 10 mile round trip that should take approximately 4 hrs. Since it was essentially level and a very nice day I agreed. After 4 miles I was really looking forward to running into the surf at Bonanza. Greg, who seems to have boundless energy for this type of activity, was ready to immediately turn around and head back. A 30 min. compromise was negotiated. I was really draggin’ by the time we completed the round trip. It was extremely interesting and worth the effort however. The southern end of the island was under the sea before being thrust up and the ground is composed of crushed coral and shells. It seemed odd to see chunks of coral and shells throughout this desert environment. We managed to spot a black hare, one of the few mammals on the island, during the hike.

 



Agave after blooming.

 

Approaching Playa Bonanza from the west.



Looking to the north along Playa Bonanza



Looking south. No one but us.










Desert wildflowers attracting hummingbirds.
  

Vultures were everywhere with lots of their friends.

We have learned that the Mexican idea of a “hike” is much different from what Americans are used to. The signs that indicate a hiking “opportunity” do indicate the length and severity of the hike. However, we discovered that there usually aren’t any marked trails and bouldering is usually required.

We only stayed two days due to wind conditions. We will be returning to La Paz in two weeks so we will have another opportunity to explore when we pass by next time.



Bahia San Gabriel sunset



Caleta Partida

After checking out several anchorages we settled for Caleta Partida, the largest and most protected anchorage of the two islands.

Cave formation in the volcanic rocks.

Caleta Partida is a caldera from an extinct volcano and the geology is very interesting. The water is crystal clear and very shallow for a ways out from the beach. Dinghying into shore always required a lengthy slog through the water, which wasn’t unpleasant - you just needed to remember to dress appropriately. Greg has never been one to run around barefoot. However, since we reached Baja he has set out on adventures on a few occasions and discovered that he has forgotten to bring his shoes.



A walk along the beach at Caleta Partida.



 



Morey eel post mortem.



Semipalmated Plover

 


It should be obvious why divers and snorkelers are warned not to mess with moreys. These teeth looked scarier than all the shark teeth that I had seen.



















I know he's waiting for me to take another 10 mile desert hike and not make it to the end.

One of the thrills at Caleta Partida was seeing a marine turtle swimming 50 feet off the stern of our boat.

At high tide you can dinghy through the channel separating the islands and visit sea caves on the east side of Espiritu Santo. We tried but the 1 ½ mile trip was too much for wind conditions. We did eventually see them from a distance as we returned down the east side of the islands on our way back to La Paz. Another future adventure.