Mulege Musing

The colorful mountains on the peninsula between the Sea of Cortez and Bahia Concepcion

Playa Santispac, Bahia Coyote





Turn off the sun. I need my 23 hours of sleep!


While in the Mulege area we received an email that our Columbia, CA friends were going to fly down to their place in Mulege, called Estrella de Columbia, on March 20^th (one is a professional pilot) and stay for a week. We were thrilled to hear this and of course decided to extend our stay near Mulege. This happens to be great timing because it will be our 38^th anniversary on the 24^th and Greg’s 60^th birthday on the 27^th.

We had been told earlier that one of the other owners of Estrella de Columbia, KR, was already there and Greg walked a ways down the Mulege River (actually the Rio Santa Rosalia) from Mulege to Estrella to meet him. KR mentioned that he was expecting a friend who was trailering his Macgregor 26 down from northern California and that we might see them out and about on Concepcion Bay. 



While anchored in Bahia Coyote, a very popular place in the larger Bahia Concepcion, they sailed by us and then came over to visit. KR introduced us to his friends Jan and Jan’s son Trevor. They told us they were going to spend the day sailing down the bay and then stop back by for “sun downers”. 

  
 

When they returned Greg invited them to raft up to Comocean, rather than anchor, since they were so small compared to us. We then invited them to join us for dinner and to my surprise Jan provided not only wine but the entire dinner (which I gladly cooked). They had purchased fresh fish and they were happy to share. Jan turned out to be the general manager of his family’s winery, Cooper-Garrod Estate Vineyards, in Saratoga, CA. Jan provided two bottles of an exquisite 2008 Chardonnay, a 2006 Syrah and a 2005 Cabernet. Trevor is an accomplished guitarist and he provided music during cocktails. I was in heaven.

 

Jan, Trevor and KR on Betsy's Wish

The next day they cast off their lines and were headed to Loreto and adjacent islands. We were surprised to see them returning early the next morning. They had decided that they didn’t have enough fuel or fresh water to make it all the way to Loreto so they were going to pull the boat and drive it down there.  



El Patron (Greg sitting in the back)



We joined them for dinner at a little restaurant on the beach called El Patron.

The youngest employee was wondering around the outside dining area along with the “restaurant dog”. I asked about the “no dogs” sign and  

was told by a “regular” that the dog was special and it didn’t apply to him/her. We had a great dinner of camrones (shrimp), pulpo (octopus) and fresh jurel (yellow tail).

 

A friendly voice came over the VHF radio one afternoon to alert whale watchers that there was a pair of humpback whales at the southern end of Bahia Conception. The next day we sailed almost to the southern end of the bay in hopes of seeing them. We eventually anchored at Isla Requeson which is an island attached to Baja by a sand spit. It’s a lovely place for camping but we were told that boats rarely anchor there. I couldn’t see why not.

Sand spit from Isla Requeson



The next morning we hiked up to the top of Isla Requeson to get a look around. Never saw the whales but it was an interesting volcanic island. Once again, the unexpected - there were some lavender aster-like flowers among the rocks.

 

flowers in the rocks



Volcanic rock of Isla Requeson

 

Looking south from Isla Requeson



The whole area is volcanic in origin and the hillside on the Baja side had what we think were piles of reddish rock blown out of a volcano.  One however, looked as though it had been created by an intelligent being. It very strongly resembled a whale. We may never know.

We have encountered dolphins several times now - no whales unfortunately. It’s always surprising when a few separate from the frenzied fishing activity of the group and swim over to investigate our boat. Some swim under us and others swim along side, occasionally they ride the bow wave. After a few minutes they head back to fishing with their friends and family.




We are currently anchored off of Punta Chivato, a point about ten miles north of Mulege. There is a very nice resort here and another gringo community. The sunsets are lovely and the moon is extraordinary. Tonight it is supposed to be 14% larger than normal. I have no idea how this can be but I am looking forward to it.



Moon over Punta Chivato



This is all so exhausting!





Bahia Concepcion

Its 8 am and I am sitting  cross-legged on the side of an empty swan fountain in the Mulege Plaza; my computer is plugged into a Mexican version of a light post. The birds are singing and a Mexican radio talk show is playing near by. Six grounds men are sweeping the little plaza. Greg is sitting a few feet away on an orange concrete bench with his computer and our banda ancha (wide band) internet hookup. Today is our last day of internet unless we can find somewhere to reup our subscription.

At 7 am this morning we were standing on the beach at Concepcion Posada waiting to hitch a ride into town with our new friends Randy and Gayle from Otter. Randy is a dentist who is volunteering at the Mulege Rotary dental clinic. Today is his last day to work and have a loner car, so he and Gayl need to get all their chores done so they can pull anchor Saturday.

We first met Randy and Gayle when we went to Anna’s restaurant last Thursday with other cruisers we had met. Anna’s was going to have music and everyone was excited. It looked like everyone from all the little gringo villages, little palapas to mini-mansions, was there. If you ever wondered where all the old hippies went - I know. They’re here! Debbie at West Marine thinks it’s unusual to be over a “certain age” (I won’t tell) and have long hair. Not here. I have never seen so much long grey hair and aged skin in skimpy clothes.   



Anna's Restaurant



 Tigre the bar dog loves tortilla chips.



One of our group was a music teacher and was playing with the band, He told us that by the third set it was next to impossible to play with them because of their inhalation therapy between sets (if you get my drift). Old hippies never die they just fade away in Mulege.




The band for old hippies.

 

 

Tigre the bar dog doing kitchen duty.



We were lucky enough to land in Mulege in time to catch the annual Rotary Club Chili Cook-off. Randy was cookin’ chili and we tagged along. It turned out to be a very unusual day. First we made a stop at the local gringo church for some prayer, fellowship and a plane crash. Yeah that’s right. Just as we drove up a single engine plane lost its engine and crashed 200 feet away. They were trying to land on the dirt road but hit a hump which pitched the plane over. Fortunately, the two occupants walked away.

Ouch!!!!!!!!!



The little baja church




Preacher man and preacher dog.



Church dogs.

 

The folks at the church were great, especially preacher man. When we noticed his dogs he told us dogs where welcomed in his church and soon there were several more. The music (a keyboard on the tailgate of a pickup) and the choir were a very special treat. Three young girls, the oldest playing the keyboard, sang beautifully.

At the chili cook-off Greg managed to sample all 18 chilies and consume four Pacificos. I noticed that they start drinking young down here.

Randy and Gayle

There was a lovely lady  wearing a sign board advertising an adoptable cat which she walked around the plaza. Unfortunately, she didn’t hind a new forever home for it.

While the guys enjoyed their last cervasa, Gayl and I visited several tiendas looking for provisions and wine. Today we will be doing the same and I am afraid she and I will be in a race to see who gets to the wine first - it’s in very limited supply and we are both planning to be away from cities for a while.

When we finally leave Mulege for who knows where, we will eventually head back to Puerto Escondido in April for the Loreto Fest boat party. We have been told that I can get my ham license upgrade there.

Weather is on everyone's mind here in the Sea of Cortez and we rely on two sources: Dr. Don Anderson and Geary the Weatherman at El Burro Cove here in Bahia Conception. We met Geary at the party at Anna's. Would YOU trust a weather guy that looks like this? 

Geary the Weatherman at El Burro

Did you know Humidity could go this low?
17% and going down.

They start them young down here.

Canadians everywhere!