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| Looking west toward La Paz from anchorage. |
Hasta Luego La Paz
It’s Monday May 9. We are preparing to “officially” check out of
Mexico. For only $350 US they will let us leave. This morning we purchased (hopefully) enough food to last us the four weeks it will take us to reach
Hawaii. Yesterday we discussed sailing scenarios like loosing our rudder, running out of fuel and malfunction of the water maker. We will be in contact with Dr. Don Anderson all the way across by SSB should we have any weather or routing questions. We feel confident that we are ready to go. Its 3pm and its 86 deg and the humidity is 28%. The heat is starting to really get to me so we need to leave. I will be able to make blog entries by SSB email but I won’t be able to do pictures.
Greg was trying unsuccessfully to recharge our internet account thru Telcel a bit ago then his brain hacked through the heat and Spanish instructions and he did it!
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| The Telcel yacht moored at Marina de LaPaz. Local guy makes good. |
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| Loreto |
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| Looking into Puerto Escondido from outside. |
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| View thru the wiindow in the morning. |
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| Thru the window at sunset. |
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| Marina pool and hot tub, restaurant. |
A week ago we were on a mooring ball in Puerto Escondido, way out by the “windows”, for the Hidden Port Yacht Club’s Loreto Fest 2011. Loreto Fest isn’t like the Boat Show or Strictly Sail; it’s more like a Catalina rendezvous. This was their 15th gathering and, as it frequently is with volunteer events, many things were done as if it was their first time. Despite the things that a behind-the-scenes person would notice and cringe over and the fact that 30 knot winds resulted in the premature end of the fest, the organizers declared it “their best ever” and most people had a fabulous time. The main activities were games such as bocce ball, horse shoes and over-the-line played in the HOT sun; eating and drinking (lots of cervezas); and dancing to live music after dinner. There was a bay cleanup, floating cocktail parties and dinghy races. There were also seminars on fishing, lure making, diving and crafts including tie-dying and jewelry making.
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| Merry's jewelry making class. |
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| One of Merry's pieces. |
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| My first piece from orange clam shell. |
Greg and I had gone specifically for the ham radio tests that we were told happen every year. However, this year the test had just been given in
La Paz a few weeks before and the organizers didn’t think it was necessary. We did take in some of the seminars but our main activity was helping with their raffle and silent auction (this gave me something to do for three days since I didn’t want to play in the HOT sun, drink beer or force Greg to dance). The silent auction and raffle supports the education of students in Mexican villages near Puerto Escondido. The HPYC also provides scholarships for university students.
We reported to the 9am call for volunteers on Friday morning. Not much was happening and we seemed to be part of a very small group of newbies; most of the workers had been doing this for years apparently. When we asked who needed help we were directed to Patty at the silent auction tent. Patty, who is from
Ocean Park Washington but isn’t a boater, is on her forth year as the silent auction organizer. She and her friend Mike spend their winters here on the beach as “trailer trash” (her words). She had a huge project in front of her and apparently very little help other than Mike and comfort from her black poodle
Her Majesty Patty’s Black Opal. At least I think it was comfort - Opal who weighs 45 lbs likes to sit on Patty’s lap!
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| Patty |
Greg and I put our
VAST public service and silent auction experience (from former lives) to work. First obstacle: they took Patty’s tent away because they felt it was too small (which was indeed the case).
We stoodf around for a while
wondering if we would be homeless but after a while the Pacifico Beer crew erected two large tents for us. Second obstacle: tables were not available. We stood around more and waited for them to be delivered. Finally we could start. The production line got rolling and we were in business only an hour after people started inspecting merchandise. Patty was an absolute doll throughout this whole process (maybe she was on Valium - I know I would have needed it if I had been in her shoes. It’s amazing who much easier it is to cope when you’re not the one shouldering all the responsibility).
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| Opal |
Friday night we were exhausted but didn’t get much sleep due to high winds (34 knots if we remember correctly). Saturday morning we heard reports of event tents having blown away and imagined the silent auction items broken and scattered across the landscape. We got to shore as fast as we could and expecting the worst. The only wall, located at the back, had been ripped off and was being repaired. Patty and Mike had put the most valuable items in their car the night before and tied large curtains around all the tables so nothing had been damaged or lost. We taped and tied each item down as we carefully rolled the curtains back.
Saturday was more relaxed and Patty and Mike loaned me their Jeep to get groceries at the Modelorama. We enjoyed people and dog watching, especially the kids who were staking out some costume jewelry for Mothers’ Day presents. The kids came through regularly to check on their items and count their pesos. Patty and I started steering the adults away from their items so the kids wouldn’t be disappointed. There was supposed to be a pot-luck hors d’oeuvre party Saturday afternoon but it was cancelled due to high winds. By the time Greg and I got back to our boat we were both drenched despite our foul-weather gear.
The auction was supposed to wrap up at 2 on Sunday and I was more than ready. At 2 volunteers came out of nowhere and the forms were gathered and collated. I was informed that I was a cashier and the pressure increased. Third obstacle: no till or change. Ackkkk!!! Despite the heat and excitement everyone was patient and pleasant. Change was rushed over from the bar and the day was saved! Estimated funds: over $3,000 US. That made me feel much better.
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| Monday party to eat the left overs. |
Dish washing committee. I wanted to adopt him.
Patty and Mike invited us to join them for the annual “after Loreto Fest” dinner held at Domingo’s in Loreto. Taxi service was provided by the marina’s panga so we stayed nice and dry. The restaurant ambiance was great, the margaritas were the BEST and dinner was good too. To our surprise, it was Patty’s treat to show her appreciation for our help. We felt that just helping and getting to know her was reward enough for us. We hope to visit with them again in the states.
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| Patty and Mike |
We stayed in Puerto Escondido for a week. Towards the end of our stay someone announced on VHF that there was a large whale in the “waiting room” area of Puerto Escondido. Whales were supposed to be gone and someone said it was probably a whale shark. The first person responded that it was a large whale. I jumped in the dinghy and flew thru the anchorage. I reached the entrance to Puerto Escondido and saw a whale along side a catamaran. I watched it for a few minutes until it dove. I waited another 20 minutes but it didn’t resurface. I reluctantly returned to our boat.
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| Turquoise water. |
From Puerto Escondido we motored/sailed 50/50 to Aqua Verde. The next day we did more motoring and sailing down to San Evaristo. This anchorage provided the best snorkeling experience I have ever had. We could see the sandy bottom 20 ft below through the beautiful turquoise water. Greg wasn’t interested so I swam over to the south point by myself. The shore had a good kelp forest above the deeper boulders which provided excellent cover for the fish. I was immediated surrounded by colorful reef fish including hundreds of sergeant majors.
I followed a group of 50 king angel fish that looked like mom and kids. There were damsels, butterflyfish, the gorgeous Cortez rainbow wrasse, reef cornetfish, a large azure parrotfish and my favorite the longfin halfbeak. The halfbeaks were 12” long, bright bluish silver with a long beak tha
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The prolific porcupine fish was interested in our lure. |
t had a red
“rudolf” dot on the end. There were many other fish, some quite large, that I couldn’t identify.
I was really looking forward to visiting Los Islotes and swimming with the sea lions. I did this several years ago with a friend and enjoyed it immensely. As we circled Los Islotes we could see at least a dozen people snorkeling right next to the sea lions that were resting with their flippers in the air. These sea lions have had close contact with people over many years and are very inquisitive and non-threatening if treated with respect. Unfortunately, Greg didn’t feel comfortable swimming with 200-500 pound sea lions and I couldn’t convince him to go swimming with me. It just didn’t seem like fun by myself so I passed on the experience. I hope that someday I’ll be with someone who will want to do this.
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| Note the snorkelers in the lower right hand corner. |
The next morning we trolled as we continued on to
La Paz and caught our second Bonita (which meant fish for the third night in a row - poor us).
As we approached La Paz Greg noticed whale blow to the north. We watched five or so whales for several minutes. We were making water and slowing the engine is not allowed so we didn’t change course and get closer. This was the best whale experience we had had. As we motored away one of the whales leapt completely out of the water.
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| Subdividing south of La Paz. Note the lots maked in chalk. |
So now its Tuesday May 10,
Mexico’s Mothers’ Day, and we are preparing to leave. I hope we can visit Cabo Pulmo and snorkel on the only living coral reef of the west coast - if not it will be another adventure awaiting us.
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| Looking north of La Paz |
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| Sunset over El Magote |
