Thursday, June 30, 2011

Hawai'ian Cruising


Hawai'i is somewhere out there in the clouds.


Sunrise and sunsets help erase the monotony of night watches.

 
Sometimes some of the crew have a hard time staying awake. While at other times there is lots of activity to observe. Learning all about maintaining the log and SSB email keeps Cinnamon busy for hours.




A beautiful rainbow greets us after the sun rises. Within a few hours we will be in Hilo. Cinnamon's fate is still undetermined but I intend to fight the good fight for his freedom!
  
Cinnamon was a quick learner and was invaluable in checking the log for accuracy. He made sure that every flying fish that landed on the boat was duly noted.
Hilo Shoreline

We arrived at Hilo a little after sunrise and found our destination, Radio Bay, with the help of the Coast Guard. By 9 am we were entering the tiny little harbor with only 3 ft under our keel.

There was very little run for anchoring so we did our first Med Moor. I was very proud of myself as I backed Comocean neatly into her spot. Ladies, take note, keep practicing.

We were joined by Solara a family from the Pacific Northwest. Watching their two children play amused me for hours. Watching Robin do a month's worth of laundry in her little hand-crank washer made me want to run naked.
Our first day out was Sunday. We were told that the Hele-on bus was free and went from our area all over town. We started walking, constantly watching for the bus. Four miles later, after enjoying our walk past what I knew to be most of the plants we mainlanders attempt to grow as house plants but here are gigantic, the memorial park for the 1946 tsunami which wiped out the Asian neighborhood and the King Kamehameha Park we arrived at the downtown bus terminal. No buses on Sunday. We walked around and discovered that most businesses were closed on Sunday as well. We needed to get some provisions so we walked to SackNSave. We bought very little but NO way am I going to carry groceries back four miles in this heat! We had our first introduction to Hawai'ian taxis. It was fun.
Upper Rainbow Falls
I wanted to see Rainbow Falls which is on a river not far up from the other side of Hilo. I thought it would be a nice bike ride. We rode thru town and turned at the river. The slight incline wasn't too bad and I thought the falls were only a little way up. Soon I was pushing my bike. Then I was panting and looking for shade. Then I was in really bad shape and struggling to keep upright. Finally I collapsed in the shade of some large banyan trees. I poured water over my head and my body temp started to come down. I told Greg to ride ahead and find the falls and see if I might be able to make it. He came back a while later and told me that I would never make it. We should go back. The force of the wind as we screamed down the hill revived me (along with an ice cream that Greg bought me). When we rented a car we drove to Rainbow Falls. Greg had actually passed the turnoff and we had actually been only a quarter mile away on our bikes. Oh well.  I know my limits now.


Rainbow Falls with the cave behind it.

The area is very lush and large papaya trees stand between the river and the adjacent houses. The rotten fruit on the ground supported a large fruit fly population which detracted from the hiking.
Beautiful flowers always grab my attention. Every yard has some exotic flower that I have to investigate.


We just happened to arrive before a very special event. We were able to watch these sailing canoes arrive and watch the official welcome on Sunday in Hilo Bay.


 Pacific Voyagers arrive at Radio Bay
From the Website http://www.pacificvoyagers.org/

Te Mana o Te Moana"We have chosen this name for our voyage, which translates as "The Spirit of the Sea", to contribute to the wisdom of the Polynesian ancestors who loved and respected the sea. Several thousand years ago, the Polynesian ancestors traveled the Pacific on great voyaging canoes, called vaka moana, using only the stars, the ocean, and the surrounding wildlife to navigate, and lived closely connected to the sea. In crossing the Pacific from Aotearoa to Hawai'i, we aim to sail in the ancestors' wake and learn from their wisdom. We want to teach young people about this old bond with the sea."

The idea to sail across the Pacific on seven vaka is to raise awareness about the state of the ocean developed gradually. Dieter Paulmann, the founder of Okeanos - Foundation for the Sea, has felt a strong connection to the sea for his whole life. Long before he learned about the threatened state of the sea and began his mission to preserve it, he felt a deep bond with, and relationship to, the inhabitants of the sea, especially with the whales and dolphins.

Check this website for more information and map of their route. http://www.imiloahawaii.org/188
Crowd awaits the ceremony.


Hawai'ian tribal representatives greet the crews from each nation represented.


Various Hawai'ian organizations were present.
 Two men in native pre 1900 attire were present at the ceremony.


We enjoyed watching the ceremonial dancing but due to the crowd I was unable to get any good pictures of it. Each group came forward, most in native costume, and did a dance for the greeters. Most were fierce with arm and chest pounding and lots of contorted faces.

Local groups then performed in native Hawai'ian language as a tribute to the sailors and the Hawai'ian culture.

A vet came to our boat on Monday morning and examined Cinnamon. He was determined to be in good health but since he had not gone through proper procedures and we had not paid the big importation fee in advance, he had to go into quarantine. He did not have to be flown to Honolulu; there was a local kennel that could take him. Unfortunately it was a DOG kennel. Poor Cinnamon!

Monday he was stuffed into a pillow case and transported to a crate. We were assured that when we were ready to leave Hawai'i he would be returned. We left Wednesday morning right after Cinnamon got back. After inspecting the boat and assuring himself that all was well he acknowledged us. All is back to normal now and Cinnamon is keeping a very low profile as we head home. 

Mauna Kea Volcano

Sunday, June 12, 2011

(no subject)

Hawai'i Arrival

5:45 am Saturday morning June 11th land was sighted through heavy mist and rain squalls. A beautiful rainbow reaching across Hilo Bay welcomed us to Hawai'i. Hilo is so lush. I expected a rocky shore - instead its covered in trees and shrubs. The two 13,000 ft high volcanoes aren't visible from here.

By 9:45 we were med-moored to the wall in Radio Bay; not a picturesque spot, its part of the working port, but the only one allowed on the Big Island. In one direction we see stacks of cargo containers but in the other we see the breakwater. Moorage is only $11 per day and there is a nice restroom, water and trash service - a good deal. The dock at the yacht club in Honolulu where we expected to stay was destroyed by a hurricane so we have been directed to a resort marina. That ought to cost us a pretty penny or two. Speaking of pennies, Greg noticed a pile of Mexican coins at the base of a light, obviously left by someone not expecting to return to Mexico.

We went through customs easily. Agent Foss, unlike some US customs agents we have encountered at the US border with Canada, was an extremely pleasant and helpful man - part govt official, part welcoming committee and part tourist info person. He told us about the Hawai'i National Volcano Park just south of here and encouraged us to spend time there. A new vent has opened and its exciting to watch. Hopefully the island bus (which is free) goes there.

We had to surrender most of our vegetables and fruit as well as our eggs. We didn't have any beef or chicken so we didn't have any to lose. Unfortunately, the importation requirements for pets is very complex. I was unable to get any useful info via email while underway about pet importation but I was told "Hilo is not a port of entry". Odd, because Greg had specifically checked that. Turns out that the govt of Hawai'i only expects animals to enter through the airport at Honolulu. You would think an island would be a little more savvy when it comes to boats! So we and our friends on Tao are creating a commotion with our cats. Hard to imagine we are the only ones to ever arrive here with a pet. Anyway, it looks like Cinnamon will be arrested on Monday and taken to Kitty Jail. Quarantine can be up to 120 days but I hope he will be released when we leave.

The moment Cinnamon realized that we were safe and off the big ocean he reverted to his normal self. Once his environment was returned to normal he started drinking water and eating his kibbles again.

Greg has his work cut out for him. Only hours before we reached Hilo, a squall hit and one of the upper seams in our mail sail parted. I was rudely awakened and told "get up you have to help!". The main came down and we made our approach under power (how unsailorly!). The sail is now pulled thru the center of the dodger window and drying in preparation for its repair. After that he will repair the snapped spliced link between the spinnaker halyard and the sock swivel. hopefully our old main will hold together until we get home and Don Yager can make us a new one.

Both of us are looking forward to being tourists here in Hawai'i but we are missing our friends back in Blaine. We hope you are having a wonderful Spring.
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At 6/11/2011 11:48 PM (utc) our position was 19°43.87'N 155°03.13'W on course 021T at 0.1 knots.

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Thursday, June 9, 2011

(no subject)

Soft Breeze on a Velvet Sea

The breeze is soft and warm this evening as it caresses me and a velvet sea.
The rose colored sunset wraps around the horizon as a thumbnail moon hangs in the sky just ahead of the mast.

This is a sailor's dream.


We are less than 300 miles from Hilo, Hawaii now. We should arrive on Saturday June 12th.

I am encountering problems with "importing" Cinnamon into Hawaii. I didn't do my homework before leaving Mexico and now I am paying for it. I am told that Hilo is not "a port of entry" by the "Rabiesfree" office. It is a port of entry for boats but not for cats. Apparently they only expect pets to enter thru the airport at Honolulu. You gotta love bureaucracy. My questions via email never get answered and new directions come every day. All I know for sure is that I have to pay $145 for having a cat. I've been told by other boat folks with a cat that they may insist on flying Cinnamon to Honolulu at my expense where he may be placed in quarantine for 30 days.

This has dampened my enthusiasm for Hawaii a little. Hopefully it will still be a wonderful experience.
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At 6/8/2011 4:39 PM (utc) our position was 19°48.09'N 147°33.74'W on course 240T at 6.2 knots.

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Saturday, June 4, 2011

(no subject)

Half-Way Point

On day nine we passed the half-way point to Hilo, Hawaii. We celebrated last night with gin & tonics on ice and a lovely bouillabaisse retrieved from the freezer. On our first attempt I wasn't able to get near the stove but this time it isn't quite so nasty and I have been able to prepare a hot meal each night.

So far I have seen any marine mammals but this afternoon a booby (blue footed, I think) flew by.

We should be arriving in Hilo on the Big Island around the 12th. Greg may have a hard time getting me to leave and head back north. This crossing business is not my cup of tea.
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At 6/3/2011 11:49 PM (utc) our position was 19°13.58'N 135°29.08'W on course 276T at 7.1 knots.

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