Isla Espiritu Santo

Bahia San Gabriel

Comocean facing the lagoon & rookery.

Just 20 miles north of La Paz are the islands of Espiritu Santo and Partida. The two islands are only separated by a narrow channel which can be navigated by dinghy at high tide. These islands are in the National Marine Park and there is a 40 peso (approx $3.50 US) per person per day fee for any type of recreational activity on the islands (since there are no park rangers, users are supposed to self report their activities - which apparently doesn’t happen).

In 2003 an alliance of Mexican and US conservation groups assisted the Mexican government in purchasing the islands to preserve and protect them. According to the Nature Conservancy, this region serves as breeding grounds for birds, sea lions and marine turtles.

Our first anchorage was Bahia San Gabriel on the southwestern end of Isla Espiritu Santo. San Gabriel is a large bay with a beautiful white sand beach. There is a lagoon (OH BOY!) to explore which has the remains of an abandoned pearl fishery and a Magnificent Frigatebird rookery. Greg tried unsuccessfully to row into the lagoon against the out-flowing tide. We only had inches below the dinghy and I was afraid the many spiny urchins would surely puncture it. We decided that we would have to return another day when the tide was in our favor.

Magnificent Frigatebird



Note the male's red pouch which he uses to attract females.



Our guidebook noted a trail that leads across the island from Bahia San Gabriel to the enormous Playa Bonanza on the eastern shore of Espiritu Santo. In Greg’s never ending attempts to get me to exercise he suggested that we take a “walk”. The trail sign indicated that it was a 10 mile round trip that should take approximately 4 hrs. Since it was essentially level and a very nice day I agreed. After 4 miles I was really looking forward to running into the surf at Bonanza. Greg, who seems to have boundless energy for this type of activity, was ready to immediately turn around and head back. A 30 min. compromise was negotiated. I was really draggin’ by the time we completed the round trip. It was extremely interesting and worth the effort however. The southern end of the island was under the sea before being thrust up and the ground is composed of crushed coral and shells. It seemed odd to see chunks of coral and shells throughout this desert environment. We managed to spot a black hare, one of the few mammals on the island, during the hike.

 



Agave after blooming.

 

Approaching Playa Bonanza from the west.



Looking to the north along Playa Bonanza



Looking south. No one but us.










Desert wildflowers attracting hummingbirds.
  

Vultures were everywhere with lots of their friends.

We have learned that the Mexican idea of a “hike” is much different from what Americans are used to. The signs that indicate a hiking “opportunity” do indicate the length and severity of the hike. However, we discovered that there usually aren’t any marked trails and bouldering is usually required.

We only stayed two days due to wind conditions. We will be returning to La Paz in two weeks so we will have another opportunity to explore when we pass by next time.



Bahia San Gabriel sunset



Caleta Partida

After checking out several anchorages we settled for Caleta Partida, the largest and most protected anchorage of the two islands.

Cave formation in the volcanic rocks.

Caleta Partida is a caldera from an extinct volcano and the geology is very interesting. The water is crystal clear and very shallow for a ways out from the beach. Dinghying into shore always required a lengthy slog through the water, which wasn’t unpleasant - you just needed to remember to dress appropriately. Greg has never been one to run around barefoot. However, since we reached Baja he has set out on adventures on a few occasions and discovered that he has forgotten to bring his shoes.



A walk along the beach at Caleta Partida.



 



Morey eel post mortem.



Semipalmated Plover

 


It should be obvious why divers and snorkelers are warned not to mess with moreys. These teeth looked scarier than all the shark teeth that I had seen.



















I know he's waiting for me to take another 10 mile desert hike and not make it to the end.

One of the thrills at Caleta Partida was seeing a marine turtle swimming 50 feet off the stern of our boat.

At high tide you can dinghy through the channel separating the islands and visit sea caves on the east side of Espiritu Santo. We tried but the 1 ½ mile trip was too much for wind conditions. We did eventually see them from a distance as we returned down the east side of the islands on our way back to La Paz. Another future adventure.